About Me

Trekking in the Himalayas

The infamous Fishtail Mountain framed with prayer flags
Even though we came to Nepal to go kayaking... there was no way we were going to leave without spending some quality time in the Himalayas. So all of Team Kiwi and USA got together and embarked on a 8 day journey from Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp and back.

Hessie stoked to be at ABC (Annapurna Base Camp)

And this trip was sooooooooooooooooooo gooooooooooodddd!!!! Who knew that walking uphill for 5 days straight with packs on your back then turning around and coming down could be so much fun!!!!

Team Kiwi loving ABC - Emi, Hayley, Soph, Hess, Malaika, Anna and me


Basically it involved spending a week with my best mates, in a stunning area, meeting amazing locals, climbing to over 4200m, eating real good food, taking millions of photos, NOT getting sick, laughing constantly, enjoying the bluebird days, tasting very bizarre/straight up gross chocolate cake, teaching locals how to make poached eggs, bartering for the best priced accommodation, getting lost in Tibitan Prayer Flags, soaking in the views and even sheding a few tears remembering those who couldn't be with us that day at the top.




Soph have a chilled moment amongst the prayer flags and infront of FishTail

The trip it self was pretty easy... the tracks were extremely well formed from years of tourists, mules and locals walking these paths, but the gradient was definitely something that caught us by surprse.



Note my surprise when seeing the cross section of the map and where we were walking too

The steepness of some of the hills plus the effect the altitude was having on us... definitely made us breath alot faster and reddened our checks quicker than ever before.



Sofa feeling the burn after the steepest hill of the whole trip
Due to the time of year that we went, there was practically noone else there which meant crowd free walking tracks, cheap accom, tranquility and peace....ahhhh hows the serenity!!! However everytime we did meet people - whether locals or foreigners... we received the statutory "oh no porters???... no guides???... oh be careful"!!
Cheers... to free accommodation as long as we buy their food!!!

Emi getting amoungst some yoga at about 3800m and 2 degrees!!!

We were loving it so much that we even started walking before the sun came up most mornings!!

Emi and Hess cracking the whip for us t o start before the sun starting rising!!!
It was sooooooo nice to just go walking in amongst these beautiful mountains and get back into the vibe of fully and wholly enjoying nature. Our time up there went so fast. I honestly can say that I enjoyed it even more than the San Koshi trip - there were no dramas, no timeframes, no stress, and just amazing people with great attitudes to hang out with the whole time.
The entire team at ABC (4200m) just before our decent, with Annapurna Mountain behind us.
Its just another 4000m to the top from here!!!! Some Base Camp aye?

Noone really pictures the Himalayas as having a tree line... but it is lush and beautiful


Some classic little chickas used to the high altititude showing off their carrying prowess

It was refreshing to meet mountain people and hear their stories of how they work and live, compared to the money crazy peeps in Kathmandu... we met one 50 year old man who walks up to ABC with 50kgs hung from his head every 2 days for a living!!! He was an absolute machine!!! We saw him on his way up AND down, in the same time that we were going up (and we were pretty fast too!!!). Our little lungs just could not compare with his, after living in the mountains his whole life.

Malin struggling with the Altitude

Team Xtreme loving being at the top

Pretty much the only time we had to share the track!!!
And before we knew it, it was Day 8, we were back in tourist-ville and we were bartering with much less friendly locals for a taxi back to Pohkara... what an amazing trip with such amazing people!!!
Me and Sofa reminiscing on the trip we had just completed from view at Pohkara

Himalayan River Girls Expedition

HRG on the Sun Kosi River in Nepal

Epic is one word used to describe the first ever Himalayan River Girls (HRG) decent of the Sun Koshi River where 30 female kayakers from Sweden, Norway, Wales, USA, Nepal and New Zealand embarked on a 270km, 10 day white water kayaking trip in Nepal. Other words could include frantic, a world first, inspirational or just straight up crazy. But it was definitely epic on many levels.


All the kayakers on the HRG trip... theres another 10 women in the rafts as well

The idea for the HRG kayaking club was originated over a year ago by Swedish paddler Inka Trollsas, who after spending 8 seasons in Nepal had never met a single female river guide. In an industry so huge that ‘Rafting’ is given as an option for why you are entering the country in your customs card – it seemed crazy that not a single woman worked in this industry. Something had to change, and this is where the HRG club came in.

All the HRG women together at the base of the waterfall
The initial idea was to teach some Nepali women how to kayak, but this idea quickly escalated into a huge scale month long programme with 9 Nepali women who participated in kayaking, rafting, river rescue and first aid components, with 21 women from all over the world volunteering to help with the project and 2 film crews joined the party as well!!!
Team Kiwi consisted some of my favourite people Sofalofa Hoskins, Hessie Hilbink, Malaika Davies, Emi Earle, Hayley Segal, Kelly Blayney!!! and I came along too.
Kelly, Malaika, Hessie, Hayley, Sofa, me, Spanna and Emi representing Aotearoa

Team Kiwi rocked into Kathmandu with the aim to donate their skills, time and over $10,000 worth of kayaking equipment that they had been generously donated by the NZ public or sponsored by companies such as Canoe and Kayak, Keen, Macpac, Bivouac, Hydraulics, Icebreaker, CPIT, Shewee, Day Two, Fergs Kayaks, Hybrid Care and helped out by Singapore Airlines.

Just a tiny amount of the gear that was donated to the HRG club by team kiwi

The Sun Koshi River is an amazing 10 day kayaking trip, which starts off with flat water and easy grade 2 rapids and then builds up progressively to peak with 3 days of quality high volume grade 3-4 sections and then settles down again to the finish. This meant that the Nepali girls could be in kayaks on the easy stuff and then jump on the raft for infamous rapids like Huckapor, Dead Man’s Eddie and Jungle Corridor.


Im loving chilling on the rock with Komila (Little Ant), Emi, Hayley and Radha

The trip started off in typical Nepali fashion with horrendous road blocks, hours and hours of delays and general chaos, as well as so much media attention at the put-in that we ended up getting on the water hours later than planned and arrived at camp in darkness.


Emi, Malaika and Hessie riding in style to the put in

Home sweet home while on the river... me, Sofa, Kelz, Hayley, Hes, M*, Spanna and Bruno

The first few days flew by, with the majority of the time being dedicated to teaching the Nepali girls everything about life on and off the water. Everything on this trip was new to them; most of them could not even swim 2 weeks before the trip, but half way through the Sun Koshi they were fearlessly throwing themselves into rapids that some of the foreign girls even swam on!!!

Inka, Radha and Malin enjoying the beautiful river, outstanding weather and great company

Occasionally there would be a big hole or wave train that was dotted between kilometers of flat water and the Nepali girls wouldn’t even blink an eyelid or even think about portaging. One of the local girls Radha was such a natural kayaker that she surfed out of a massive hole that she got caught in on her 4th ever day on the river.

Radha showing us how to kayak on her 4th day in a boat!!!

They learnt how to read white water, build toilet tents and look after foreign women knocked out with the D&Vs (Diarrhea and Vomiting). They amazed us all with their natural ability, positive attitudes and determination to be the first Nepali women to break into the white water industry… and this is from girls as young as 18 who had never even seen a drybag before!!!

Hessie enjoying an early morning venture to the beautiful toilet tent

And then there were the sicknesses. With a group of 35 people on a multi-day kayaking trip in Nepal with no access to clean water and minimal hygiene standards - we were destined to get sick. It seemed like everyday there was a new casualty who had to be confined to an oar boat as there was no way that they could paddle due to D&Vs, exhaustion, dehydration and the inability to hold down food or water.

It looks innocent and delicous... but its cooked in water that has run through China, Tibet and half of Nepal before it got to us and our bellies... it quickly come out...of both ends...not so cool!!!!!

Then Huckapor rapid loomed upon us. We guessed that this was the first Grade 4 rapid that the Nepali girls had ever seen, due to the expression on their faces when they stood on the bank looking at it!!! Huckapor intimidated more than just the Nepali girls, as only half of the foreign women paddled it, but everyone who chose to paddle the rapid styled it.

Scouting Huckapor

Then there was Dead Mans Eddie which is another big rapid notorious for the accident that gave the rapid its name. It is a long rapid that in higher water could be real knarly but at the flow we had, it was big and fast but super friendly. All the foreign girls jumped in the kayaks and styled it with ease.

Sweet line and good times

With these two rapids out of the way everyone sighed with relief thinking that the hardest rapids on the trip were over… but then Rhino Rock and Jungle Corridor came upon us and hit us hard!!!! Rhino Rock is a really long sustained rapid with massive waves, big holes, and about 5 different runable lines. As we thought the major rapids were over we just boat scouted this rapid - but then the paddle signals changed with almost every paddler who ran the rapid. There were so many lines that you could take but impossible to know which one was best and what feature was in between them. All of the Nepali girls were in the rafts but a few of the foreign women explored some interesting lines and took some good beat-downs along the way. But what a beautiful rapid!!! We all could not believe that it did not have a reputation that preceded it because it was one the classiest rapids on the whole river.


Huckapor rapid

And then there was Jungle Corridor, a section of 5 beautiful big volume rollercoaster rapids which always ended in flat pools and about 20 women smiling from ear to ear and screaming with laughter about how fun that rapid had just been!!! None of the Nepali girls were ready to run a section like Jungle Corridor so they were all on the raft which meant that we able to take off our teaching hats and be let loose on the river!!! Jungle Corridor was definitely a trip highlight, and some of us mulled over the idea of hitching a lift 20km upstream to do it all over again!!!

Team extreme always trying to find a challenge...




Hasellah is always smiling... but this time because she was getting into the boat after the major rapids

And then all too soon we were on the flat water heading to our final destination. The last few days were focused on getting the Nepali girls back on the water to develop their kayaking skills, but before we could say ‘Namaste’, we were at the take-out ready for our 20 hour drive away from the river we had called home for the last 10 days.

When the river opened up and turned into the plains

The Sun Koshi trip may have officially finished, but the river training programme had just started for the Nepali girls as there was still the Peak UK Himalayan White Water Festival to enter, 2 weeks of river rescue, raft and first aid training to start and another kayaking trip on the Seti River with most of Team Kiwi and USA. Emi leading the pack at the get out

The HRG Sun Koshi River trip will be remembered for so many reasons by those fortunate enough to be part of the journey; For the scenery, the local villagers, the generosity of the people and companies that supported the HRG club, the attempted macaroni cheese, the illnesses, the 2 films that are going to be made about it, the flat water, the white water, the yoga, the fact that 30 women were on the river at one time, and that after the trip all the Nepali girls got offered jobs from 5 of Nepal’s leading raft companies… and this is just the tip of the ice berg to why this trip was pure and simply EPIC!!!